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For the June 2009 issue of ISLANDS magazine, associate editor Adrienne Egolf traveled to the Bocas del Toro islands off Panama's coast for a special trip with her father. This is how her story begins: |
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Maybe my dad was right. Behind me, he's in flip-flops. Bocas del Toro, an archipelago of untouched beaches and uncrowded seas, is a place for sand between the toes, after all. So why am I in durable Gore-Tex shoes? Because the island we're on, Isla Bastimentos, also has thick jungle, and the rugged trail winding ahead is steep and slick from this morning's rain. The canopy drips with condensation and life. Roots jut from the ground at every angle, and streams cross our path. Our Ngobe Bugle Indian guide, Delfina, is barefoot -- but her soles must be superhuman to manage this terrain with no tread. Surely, my feet are the best equipped here in hiking shoes and super-absorbent socks. "Uh, un momento, por favor, señorita," my dad calls in halting Spanish. Delfina pauses and turns, whether in understanding or lack thereof. My dad takes the moment to sit down on a log and trade out the flimsy flip-flops. I don't say, "I told you to wear different shoes," and he doesn't say, "I'm glad you said to bring these sneakers." Only a running stream narrates our intermission.
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We're here, my dad and I, to bond -- to travel, just the two of us, to a place where clear, Caribbean water and golden sand might bridge the distance and years since our last trip together -- a simple getaway to North Carolina for a family reunion that still spurs laughter, stories and watery eyes. "What about hiking through the woods behind Aunt Hazel's house?" he'll ask, nudging my arm. "Yeah, you made me walk across that log over a raging river," I'll respond, exaggerating for the sake of the story. But since then, we've each made ever-growing lists of destinations to get to with ever-shrinking windows of time to travel them. When he does escape somewhere, he goes with my mom; I've gone with friends, and now almost always, my husband. My dad and I haven't made the time for a new adventure together. So when I heard about Bocas' two newest eco resorts -- one over the water and one in the jungle -- I thought first of him. My dad's a surfer, sailor and fisherman -- a man of the water. "It's all deserted beaches and sea," I told him. "Hardly any development at all. We'll have so much time to talk." Yet as we planned our weeklong stay, trading flight schedules and tour suggestions over e-mail, I started to worry: Was Bocas del Toro too quiet? I hoped the sounds of these islands would be loud enough to inspire us. (Read the full version in the June 2009 issue of ISLANDS.)
Plan Your Trip: Bocas del Toro
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