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Cuba: What Happens Now and Next?

Jad Davenport travels to Cuba just as U.S. restrictions start to ease

For the ISLANDS magazine, contributing editor Jad Davenport traveled to Cuba, where he used old family photos to find what has & hasn't changed across the decades on the Caribbean's largest island. Below is how his story begins, with Jad's accompanying video further exploring what he was looking for on this special Cuba trip:

Orlando whistles softly as I hand him the faded photograph. Except for the sepia tones, it's identical to the scene before us -- Havana harbor on a pleasant afternoon, the 18th- century ramparts of La Cabaña fortress gazing down on a sailboat crossing the water. Atop the fortress a Cuban flag in an offshore wind points north to Key West only 100 miles away. "Where did you get this?" Orlando asks. He's a 50-something civil engineer working at a pumping station; we met when I asked permission to climb a wall beside the pumps so I could take a picture. The same picture he's holding in his hands. "My great uncle took it in the early 1900s," I say. "He owned land in Cuba before the revolution, and I've come to find it." Orlando clucks his tongue and shakes his head. "Incredible," he says. And then he does exactly what I've been doing for the past three days in Havana. He holds up the antique photograph and tries to align two centuries in a single moment. I show him the rest of the 27 prints. They're beautiful moments frozen in time -- a woman in a flowing white dress on Calle Obispo, a guajiro in a straw hat behind his team of oxen, a horse buggy passing an electric trolley on Prado Avenue. "Good luck finding your land," Orlando says with a firm handshake. "You know," he adds, "nothing has changed at all. Cuba is still the same." And I can't tell if he says it with a sense of pride or humor, or just a touch of hope.

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I decided to travel to Cuba and follow the photographic trail to see if I could find the lost land. But more than that, I wanted to see if those vintage scenes still existed. I would make a pilgrimage through Cuba's past and into its present, a journey that might even offer me a peek at its uncertain future. (To read the full story, get the digital version of the July/August 2009 issue.)

Plan Your Trip: Cuba

  • Check the latest status for U.S. citizens traveling to Cuba. Some restrictions eased earlier in 2009. state.gov
  • Fly through Mexico, Canada or the Bahamas. Since 1961, the U.S. government has prohibited Americans without special licenses from spending money in Cuba (in theory limiting tourism). Despite the threat of fines and even imprisonment, however, thousands of Americans travel to Cuba every year through a third country.
  • Stay at Hemingway's old haunt, Hotel Ambos Mundos (rooms start at $110), a wonderfully colonial hotel (his room, 511, has been made into a small museum), hotelambosmundos-cuba.com. The rooms are small and simply furnished in the heart of Old Havana. Request an outside room; interior rooms don't have windows. Hotel Los Jazmines (rooms start at $65) a few miles outside the tourist town of Viñales has the best panorama of the valley with its picturesque limestone mountains. Rooms in the new wing have balconies with picture-postcard views. Casa Emilia (run by Doña Emilia, ask anyone for directions) rents out rooms in her home for $30 and cooks fresh lobster dishes. There's only one resort at Maria La Gorda, the Villa Maria La Gorda Hotel and International Diving Center (rooms start at $65). villamarialagorda.com
  • Sip a mojito with fresh mint leaves and lime, available anywhere, anytime. Frozen daiquiris run a close second. You'll pay $4 a drink.
  • Puff a handrolled puro. Cigars are available everywhere (prices start at $5), but the best come from cigar shops in Havana or directly from tobacco farms in Piñar del Rio. Homemade puros won't have labels, but make sure they're fresh (the cigar should give just a little -- and not feel dry and crackly -- when pinched).
  • Spend Cuban convertible pesos (referred to as CUC or "kook"). U.S. dollars can be converted on arrival, but a 10 percent tax is imposed. A better option is to bring along plenty of Canadian dollars and change those into CUC. Change from banks to avoid being duped into buying Cuban pesos (the local currency, worth far less). Your American credit and debit cards will not work in Cuba, so be sure to bring plenty of cash.

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