MUST HIKE the Headhunters' Trail, once used by the Iban warriors to portage canoes through dense jungle from the Melinau River to the Terikan River.
MUST VISIT the world's largest cave chamber, in Gunung Mulu National Park.
MUST WATCH FOR endangered orangutans, which exist in the wild only in Borneo and Sumatra. For a sure sighting, visit the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre.
MUST STAY with tribes at a traditional Iban longhouse and try tuak, the local rice wine. In Sandakan stay at the lovely Sepilok Nature Resort.
MUST GO with a local outfitter who can arrange longhouse stays.
CONTACT:
SARAWAK TOURISM BOARD, 011-6082-423-600, WWW.SARAWAKTOURISM.COM; "TASTE OF BORNEO," 10 DAYS FROM $1,560, WWW.RESPONSIBLETRAVEL.COM; "HEADHUNTERS' TRAIL," 5 DAYS FROM $313, 011-60-82-245-175, WWW.BORNEOADVENTURE.COM; SEPILOK NATURE RESORT, FROM $53, 011-60-89-765200, WWW.SEPILOK.COM.
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