MUST VISIT Ir¿klio's Archaeological Museum (housing Greece's finest collection of Minoan art) and the ancient palaces of Knoss¿s and Phaistos.
MUST SPREAD a beach towel on the sand at Vai on the east end of the island (about 15 miles from Sit¿a) where a lush palm forest springs out of nowhere.
MUST HIKE Samaria Gorge, in the White Mountains. Arrive at dawn to beat the heat and crowds and watch for the kri-kri, Crete's endangered mountain goat.
MUST STAY at Hani¿'s prize inn, Doma, a converted neoclassical mansion with tons of local flavor.
MUST TASTE kalitsouni (cheese and spinach pie) and lamb stew, then linger over a glass of raki at Nykterida.
CONTACT:
GREEK NATIONAL TOURIST ORGANIZATION, 212-421-5777, WWW.GREEKTOURISM.COM; DOMA, FROM $130, 011-30-2821-051772-3, WWW.HOTEL-DOMA.GR; NYKTERIDA, 011-30-2821-069000. IR¿KLIO'S ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, 011-30-2810-22-60-92, WWW.INTERKRITI.ORG.
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