MUST CLIMB the steep trail to the island's highest point, 3,232-foot Nevis Peak. Get Lynnelle and Earla Liburd at Sunrise Tours to guide you.

MUST VISIT The Heritage Village, an impressive display of Nevis architecture, including simple Carib dwellings furnished with period relics.

MUST ATTEND the Friday cookout at Water Department on Pump Road, with barbecued chicken and Carib beer. Come at 5-ish when the music starts.

MUST STAY at Montpelier Plantation Inn, an impeccably restored hillside retreat overlooking the Caribbean.

MUST TASTE Miss June's "Cuisine," extravagant five-course meals served in the elegant house of Trinidadian chef June Mestier. Reservations required.

CONTACT:

NEVIS TOURISM AUTHORITY, 866-556-3847, WWW.NEVISISLAND.COM;

MONTPELIER PLANTATION INN, FROM $230, 869-469-3462, WWW.MONTPELIERNEVIS.COM;

MISS JUNE'S CUISINE, 869-469-5330;

SUNRISE TOURS, 869-469-2758;

NEVISIAN HERITAGE VILLAGE, 869-469-5521.