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Want an Island to Yourself?

Want an Island to Yourself?

It sounded great. A chance to have a Caribbean island (Thomas Cay in the Exumas) all to myself. Unlimited sand, sun and sea for my exclusive use. No iPhone, TV or Internet, no world financial crisis or lawn maintenance. Count me in.
Castaway Beach
Photo by: Matthew Miller

“Bring a mosquito net,” advised an inhabitant of a nearby island. “And have you thought about food?”

Actually, no. I hadn’t. And then David Hocher, owner of Staniel Cay Yacht Club – home of the Exumas’ happiest happy hour, where I will not be drinking cold Kaliks this afternoon – drops me off on my island. Or at least close enough so I can wade to it. In front of me is a sun-blazed white beach straight out of a middle manager’s corporate-office daydream. David motors away, leaving me standing in water up to my thighs with the sun already burning my neck.

For the next 26 hours I’ll be alone with a pocket knife, a fishing pole, a hammock and no way home. I squint at the beach and the boat’s disappearing wake. What if he doesn’t come back? What if I fall in a blue hole? Are there snakes in paradise? But I have work to do. I have to explore the island for the best hammock-hanging trees and set up a sun shade. And I need to find something to eat.

Nine hours later I’m standing on a tide-worn cliff, muttering. “Take the hook. Please?” There’s no one around to hear me. I know there are fish. Earlier, near my beachside campsite, a big parrotfish swam past me without fear, along with snappers, jacks and other delicious creatures. I should’ve fashioned a spear from a palm frond. Now the fish nip at the bait – tap, tap, tap – teasing me.

The hook comes up empty again. I pull another whelk (sea snail) from my damp hip pocket and impale it on the hook. All along I steal glances across the channel separating me from the next cay north. Is that island inhabited? Maybe by chefs and bartenders? Is it worth swimming over there to find out?  I contemplate what’s in the water and wonder if it (whatever “it” is) is as hungry as me.

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