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Getting There: Not Half the Fun

What’s a little no-holds-barred sharing among friends? Our peripatetic contributors share the good, the bad and the ugly of island-resort experiences and island travel. There have been backbreaking journeys that made them think twice about leaving home. Breathtaking views that made all the effort worth it. Meals that made them wince. Snuggly beds that made them forget about their queasy stomachs. It all starts with a soft mattress in the land of elephants.

Medjumbe Island, Mozambique Getting to Africa in general requires a long haul out of Atlanta or New York. At 17½ hours to Cape Town, these are among the longest direct flights in the world. It makes flying to Australia from the West Coast seem like a piece of cake. After a seemingly never-ending six-hour layover in Cape Town, it’s another few hours of flight time up to Mozambique, where I hang around a dusty airport for half a day and catch an even smaller plane out to Medjumbe Island. But all this schlepping is sure worth it when I arrive at sunset after 48 hours of travel, am handed an icy caipirinha and gaze out at the wild Indian Ocean. — JD

Kandui Surf Resort, Mentawai Forty-plus hours of travel includes a three-hour boat ride aimed at an island-free horizon. Teenagers navigate some of the journey without a compass, smoking cigarettes as gasoline swishes around on the floorboards. Even wilder: how surfing one frothing wave in Mentawai washes away memories of the arduous journey there. — EP

Matavai Resort, Niue There’s only one flight a week that leaves from New Zealand and arrives in Niue, and it lands in the middle of the night. Next up is a jitney ride in pitch-black darkness; then I’m led to my room by the resort’s lone employee, who carries a single kerosene hurricane lamp. It’s even more dramatic when I wake up the next morning to a stunning coastal view of bone-white sands and dramatic cliffs. — DL

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