EDEN ROCK/DEVIL'S GROTTO
Just south of George Town, a huge mass of limestone coated in a living shell of coralline algae, sponges, sea fans and patches of living coral towers 30 feet over the sand. Honeycombed with caves and sunlit caverns, Eden Rock and adjacent Devil's Grotto attract many fish -- damselfish, parrotfish, trumpetfish and, down in the shadows, big tarpon -- along with multitudes of snorkelers who use treats to attract hordes of yellowtails and sergeant majors.
For those who don't require any distractions beyond empty beaches, luminous blue water and great snorkeling, this most remote of the British Virgin Islands is next to nirvana. Park at the Big Bamboo bar/restaurant and walk through the sea grapes to the beach. The lagoon is dotted with coral heads you can easily spot from the surface, and the main reef is just a short swim beyond. Fin to the left and you'll find a series of fish-filled caves and caverns
This narrow slice of sand is not the best for the sun worshipers, but for snorkelers, it's what's under the surface that counts. There's a wrecked fishing boat about a half-mile to the south in five feet of water, a hideout for bottom feeders. North of the entry, mounds of crusty rock and coral tempt a diverse crowd: starfish, puffers, crabs and fire worms.