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Dispatches:

BLOGS

Dispatches:

August 13th, 2012
From DR's North Shore:
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Photo by: Jon Whittle
Almond Pod

THE GOAL: To find exactly what excites and unites the people of the Dominican Republic. STRIKE ONE: Mamajuana. What sounds like a request for contraband is in fact a local drink of rum, wine, herbs and honey aged in a bottle with tree bark. Said to provide “man power.” I drink it, and then need a nap.

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Tags: Blogs

August 10th, 2012
From Haida Gwaii:

Standing face to face with this ancient totem pole, I’m looking for answers. I’m on a journey through British Columbia’s wildest archipelago, the stormy Haida Gwaii Islands, on a quest to discover how a First Nation people who nearly vanished in 1911 made such a remarkable comeback. ‘We live on the edge of a knife,’ a Haida man tells me, ‘without regret for the past or worry for the future.’

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Tags: Blogs

August 10th, 2012
From Tahiti:

Dignitary, no. Prom queen, no. I’m just a photographer leaving the Tahitian island of Maupiti after being adorned in heis (Tahitian for leis) from the locals I met while following their va’a (outrigger canoe) team. The afternoon of my departure, while I’m packing and getting some last-minute shots, my friends come, one by one, to say goodbye with the heis they made that morning. Riding up the street on a bike is my new 90-year-old Tahitian grandma with a hei in her basket.

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Tags: Blogs

August 10th, 2012

DO: Carry your own toilet paper. Let’s get right to practicality. You never know where you might have to relieve yourself. Tissue — even in public restrooms — can be hard to find. DON’T: Be offended by open grins and frank stares. Filipinos are curious and friendly by nature, and many have never met foreigners up close. You are an alien, and they generally don’t put on airs. Just smile back, but don’t stare.

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Tags: Blogs

August 9th, 2012
Escape Route: Antigua

There is no road to paradise. Pave the way to Antigua’s loveliest beach, for example, and that superlative will no longer apply. The challenge of arriving at the remote strand redoubles the bliss. First I was supposed to reach Rendezvous Bay on horseback, riding down through the scrub. We were going to leave at dawn and swim the horses in the surf. But Springhill Stables was booked solid the week I was there. 

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July 18th, 2012
For Love of the Lemon
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Photo by: Jen Judge
Lemons of Capri

Capri is the Monte Carlo of the Phlegrian, a magnet for moneyed Europeans come to spend small fortunes on rhinestone-decked flip-flops and salmon-colored linen jackets—and the inevitable mobs of pretenders come to ogle them. Whereas the fare of the other islands’ we’ve visited is rooted and earthy, Capri is esteemed for an ambrosial lemon gelato called Delizia d’Amore. I tried it first—yes, I sampled a few in my day on Capri, in the name of research of course...

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July 9th, 2012
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Photo by: Jen Judge
Fireworks in Amalfi

Serendipity can turn an already great trip into a truly memorable one. Yesterday we sailed into Amalfi, our trip’s final port of call, to find the city prettying up for Festa di Sant’Andrea. Twice a year, the town honors its patron saint, a fisherman, with a street festival that involves parading a larger-than-life gilded statue of him through the streets. When we sailed in, vendors were erecting stands on the waterfront from which to peddle a rainbow of gummy sweets, blocks of nougat bigger than my forearm, and o’per’ e o’muss’, a local specialty of veal snouts and feet marinated in juice from local Amalfi lemons.

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Tags: Blogs

July 6th, 2012
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Photo by: Jen Judge
Sailing

I’ve always known that there’s a certain flow and ritual to meals in Italy (apertivos, then antipasti, primi piatti in the form of pasta, meat or fish for secondi piatti, cheese, salad, dessert, espresso, and digestivos). But Peggy has taught me that drinking has its own set of protocols. “An Italian would never greet you at the door with their biggest red wine. If they did, guests would be drunk before any food was served,” she says. “There’s an order and logic to how they drink.”

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July 5th, 2012
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Amalfi Rabbit

My food expectations for this trip were steeped in locale (fish and seafood) and cliché (pizza, pasta, caprese salad). I’ve eaten all of the above, but on Ischia, the largest island in the chain at 16 square miles, I bit into something unexpected. According to Ricardo d’Ambra, owner of Il Focolare restaurant and the chairman of Slow Food Ischia and Procida, the island’s most traditional food is coniglio, or rabbit.

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June 27th, 2012
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Ristorante Bar “da Benito”

The winds were favorable today, and we sailed all the way to Ventotene, an outlying island to the northeast of Procida that is actually in the Pontine Archipelago, not the Phlegrian. With gusts snapping in the sails, we made the 26-nautical-mile trip in a cracking three and a half hours. And we were famished from the journey. Enter Benito Malingiere, the 84-year-old owner and chef of Ristorante Bar “da Benito” where we sated our appetite...

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