Italian Food: Sfogliatella
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Italian Food: Sfogliatella
Today I set out with Peggy Markel Culinary Adventures on our exploration of the Phlegrian Archipelago, off central Italy’s western coast. We’re traveling by sailboat in search of ancient Italian food traditions that are being blown away by the winds of globalization. Any culinary tour demands a nourishing start, and a quick stroll along the waterfront of Procida, the smallest and quaintest of the islands, led me to Cafe & Bar Cavaliere. Italians streamed in like kids to an amusement park ride and, more importantly, out a few minutes later clutching dapper little packets tied with ribbon. I followed the tide, took Peggy’s recommendation and ordered a sfogliatella, and gaped as the girl behind the counter bundled it with the same care she would take in wrapping silver cuff links for her husband’s Christmas gift. The pastry inside deserved that coddling. Alongside a café Americano—forgive me, but I’m still ambivalent about Italy’s thimble-size coffees—I discovered a fist-size wedge of buttery dough folded neatly around a dollop of sweet ricotta pastry cream. As tender and layered as a croissant but with the snap of a fall apple, it simultaneously crunched and melted in my mouth. So delicious was this sweet that I almost went back for seconds. But I reminded myself to go slow: this was but an apertivo for days of fine foods and protracted meals to come.





