For Love of the Lemon
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For Love of the Lemon
Capri is the Monte Carlo of the Phlegrian, a magnet for moneyed Europeans come to spend small fortunes on rhinestone-decked flip-flops and salmon-colored linen jackets—and the inevitable mobs of pretenders come to ogle them. Whereas the fare of the other islands’ we’ve visited is rooted and earthy, Capri is esteemed for an ambrosial lemon gelato called Delizia d’Amore. I tried it first—yes, I sampled a few in my day on Capri, in the name of research of course—at Gelateria Embassy, a gleaming little pastry shop overlooking a minuscule cobbled lane. The blend of creamy vanilla and bright, sweet fresh citrus was divine verging on mind altering. Had the Sirens who unsuccessfully tried to lure Odysseus to Capri had this recipe, that great epic surely would have ended on this little island. And though this treat is plenty chichi for Capri, it’s also entrenched in local culture. Campanians, it turns out, are deeply opinionated about their lemons, with every island proclaiming theirs the finest. Procidans pronounce theirs the mildest. In Amalfi, they say none can surpass their lemon’s sweet aroma. And while nobody on Capri browbeat me about the supremacy of their citrus, I’m here to tell you that until you’ve had a dollop of Delizia d’Amore you haven’t truly tasted a lemon.
This is one in a series of dispatches from Peggy Markel’s Culinary Adventures on the Italy’s Amalfi Coast.






