Walk along the colorful dockside warehouses in the capital of St. George's (perhaps the most scenic harbor city in the West Indies). They're testament to a time when spices were a rich currency all their own. Grenada has made some concessions to the modern world (duty free shopping among them), but it has a firm grasp on the spirit of the past (literally, at the River Antoine Rum Distillery, the oldest distillery in the Caribbean, where you can watch the fiery liquor made much as it was here in the 18th century). On Grenada, a way of life that has vanished from many islands, from lively morning markets to vibrant festivals (notably the Maroon Music Festival of Big Drum dancing on the sister isle of Carriacou) remain unchanged, much like its natural treasures.
Explore the Grand Etang Forest Reserve in the heart of the island. It is truly one of the finest natural areas in the Caribbean. Of the vast network of hiking paths (easy to strenuous), don't miss the Lake Circle Trail; the half-hour trek takes in stunning vistas of Grand Etang Lake in the crater of an extinct volcano and gives you a chance to spot some of the reserve's prolific bird life, including the broad-winged hawk and the Antillean crested hummingbird.
Relax on Grand Anse, with two miles of white sand and sheltered waters. It is the best known of Grenada's beaches, but secluded strands abound within easy reach along the east coast -- if you have a four-wheel-drive.
Dive to investigate the Bianca C., a 600-foot cruise ship that went down on the west coast reef in 1961 (the decks are at about 90 feet). Laid-back snorkelers can head to the white sands of Point Salines Beach at the southwestern corner of the island; the diving is best at the southern end of the beach, but the real treat is that you can always grab a bite (or something cool) at the aptly named Aquarium Restaurant on the strand.
See the waterfalls. Start early at Annadale Falls, near St. George's; a path leads through a well-kept garden to the foot of the falls. Then continue on the road a few miles to the Seven Sisters Fall, where a 45-minute hike through a private plantation (cocoa, nut- meg, bananas) and rain forest ends at a series of large, refreshingly cool pools. True wet-heads can go on toward Grenville; a couple of miles south of town (and a half-hour hike away) is Mount Carmel Waterfall, whose 70-foot cascade is the island's highest.