Overview

Did you fall asleep in American Lit. 101? If so, Nantucket may not be your cup of tea. But if you've actually read Moby Dick (the abridged version counts, Cliff Notes do not), then this picturesque elbow of sand some 30 miles off Cape Cod, once the world's richest whaling port, is likely to take your imagination on a Nantucket sleigh ride.

Walk down cobblestoned Main Street in Nantucket Town in the off season, and it's not hard to put yourself back to the time of tall ships. Quaker dwellings, simple and sturdy, stand stolidly amid well-preserved architectural masterpieces (Greek Revival, Georgian, Federal) built by captains of the whaling industry. Lighthouses along the shore (the one at Brant Point is the country's second oldest) and museums that pay homage to whalers and life-saving crews a century ago add more color to the island's historical tapestry.

And there are those who say the best of Nantucket has never changed: The wide beaches, a landscape of moors and heathlands, beach plums and cranberry bogs (nearly half of the island is held in conservation), and the sound of surf along the long, windswept Atlantic shore.

 Plan Your Trip

FISHING

Forget white whales. The objects of pursuit off Nantucket's shores are bluefish and striped bass. You can buy tackle (a 10-foot spinning rod is about right) and bait on the island, and even hire a guide. Then make your way to the beach (you'll need a 4x4 to reach Great Point and Smith Points, a pair favored by locals), but you can walk to Dionis, Pebbles, and Surfside beaches. Then, like Ishmael, cast your fate to the wind.

SIGHTSEEING

Visit the island's three lighthouses by bike or guided tour (leaving your car at home will be appreciated by the locals) but to experience the soul of Nantucket, pick up a general pass from the Historical Association. The $10 pass is good for entry to more than 20 sites maintained by the association, including the opulent Hadwen House, built by a whaling merchant named Starbuck (sound familiar?). The pass also will let you into the Whaling Museum, where the skeleton of a 43-foot finback whale watches over an incredible scrimshaw collection and nautical art.

SHOPPING

Art galleries and shops dealing in marine antiques are mainstays here, but since the late 1940s the treasured keepsake of a visit to the island has been a Nantucket lightship basket. Each is woven with fine cane and made with a wood bottom and oak handles, and decorative ivory lids often carved with scrimshaw-like scenes reflecting the isle's whaling history. The baskets are pricey (figure $800 and up for one the size of a small purse), but the early designs have become collectibles, with prices well into the thousands.

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