Overview

Tobago is one of those islands that crop up in conversations about places reminiscent of the West Indies decades ago. Just don't confuse it with Trinidad, the sophisticated, high-energy other half of this twin-island nation deep in the southern Caribbean.

Tobago, in fact, is where Trinidadians go for holidays - a slow-paced, tranquil island of natural wonders. The lush tropical rain forests (and savannahs and wetlands) have an amazingly diverse plant and animal life (including more than 600 butterfly species), thanks to T&T's proximity to South America. Giant leatherbacks nest at Stonehaven and Courland beaches, and the skies are filled with birds throughout the year. Offshore, the pristine, coral-rich reefs of a new marine park near Speyside are no less bountiful - and have turned Tobago into the leading dive destination of the southeastern Caribbean.

Development has been slow to come to Tobago (although golfers will find a new Jack Nicklaus-designed course), but for now the island is still an island of goat races, hidden beaches, and endless natural charms.

 Plan Your Trip

BEACHES

Pigeon Point, with a mile of white sand protected by Buccoo Reef (a longtime favorite with snorkelers) is the island's most popular beach. Want to get away from watersports rentals and beach bars? Continue up the leeward coast and its small villages to the deserted white sands of Englishman's Bay (hidden from the road) and Bloody Bay, the last beach you can reach by road.

NATURE

Bring binoculars for the birds - more than 200 recorded species, from tiny, iridescent hummingbirds to orange-winger parrots. At Buccoo Marsh, shorebirds are plentiful - and the scarlet ibis is an occasional visitor. Look for flycatchers and woodcreepers in the forests, and squadrons of seabirds, including the rare red-billed tropicbird, offshore at the Little Tobago Islands bird sanctuary. (And don't forget your Peterson guidebook: migratory birds from both North and South America also stop by on holiday.)

SIGHTSEEING

For a day of waterfalls and stunning coastal scenery, follow the Windward Road. Start early from Scarborough, the island capital, and make your first stop at Rainbow Falls, a 10-minute walk away. At Belle Garden, the restored Richmond GreatHouse (1776) has a large collection of African art - and a wonderful hilltop view. A little farther on, Argyle Falls (a 20-minute nature walk) is the island's highest. After lunch in Speyside, go on to Charlotteville for a swim and a visit to Flagstaff Hill and a view of this classic fishing village - and, fittingly, one of the Caribbean's finest natural harbors.

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