Sympathy for the Devil
On any journey, there's always one moment where the place I've traveled to scrubs off its makeup and shows me its true face. Here in Tasmania, this moment comes late on a Wednesday night in a rustic beach shack on the island's northwest coast. I'm here, of course, to see a devil.

View Larger Map

For centuries, the Tasmanian devil has been emblematic of this island. Named by the aboriginals, the shy, nocturnal marsupial, which doesn't appear on the Australian mainland, was once found in every part of "Tassie." During the past 10 years, though, cancer has cut the population by more than half. On November 22, 2007, the devil was listed as an endangered species. A week after that news, I arrive. My long-anticipated trip to Tasmania started out as a simple exploration of what Australians consider a sort of Lost World, down under Down Under. But now I'm centered on a goal: to find a devil alive in the wild. Read the full story.

Go with the Southern Hemisphere's seasons in mind. Think cool nights and brisk hikes in the winter (June to August), green countrysides and blooming tulips in the spring (September to November), warm weather and local festivals in the summer (December to February), and mild temperatures and fresh produce in the fall (March to May).
 
Book your flight from Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane, Australia, on board Qantas or Virgin Blue airlines, which fly to Launceston Airport daily. qantas.com; virginblue.com

Stay just outside the Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park at Risby Cove. The waterfront accommodations look out from Strahan, on the west coast of the island. Rates start at $200. risby.com.au

Sip a Raspberry Fizz drink, which is made with soda and fresh, pureed raspberries, at Raspberry Farm Cafe in Elizabeth Town. raspberryfarmcafe.com

Sample Tasmania's wine and cheese selection at Ashgrove Cheese. Try the Bush Pepper, a spicy perrey cheese that's flavored with native pepper. Pair it with a glass of peppery pinot noir. Gift packages available from $7.40. ashgrovecheese.com.au

Spy devils in the sanctuary at Cradle Mountain National Park. devilsatcradle.com

Cruise down the Pieman River from Corinna to Pieman Heads and then hop in an all-terrain vehicle and travel to Granville Harbour. The historical tour is available through Corinna Wilderness Experience for $157.50. corinna.com.au

Replenish your supply at Davie's Grand Central Station, a fine-foods grocery masquerading as a convenience store just outside of Launceston. 011-03-6331-9422

Learn more at discovertasmania.com.