Overview

Is Capri the quintessential Mediterranean island? This legendary playground of the rich and famous was a favorite of Roman emperors (one built a dozen dazzling villas around the island), but it was in the late 1800s when tourists and exiles, artists and royalty first began streaming to the island. They came in part to see the famed Blue Grotto, but it was the isle's climate and social scene that led them to settle there - and to create a still-glamorous, cosmopolitan community.

For a taste of life-style, head to the Piazetta, the cafe-lined open square in the main town, Capri, where visitors and residents alike can people-watch and take a break from shopping for luxuries and strolling the town's galleries and museums. A short walk will take you to the Giardini di Augusto, a park with a glorious view of I Faraglioni, the landmark trio of rock needles just offshore.On this mountainous isle, sunworshippers tend to prefer hotel swimming pools to the often-rocky beaches, but at the end of the day, the pleasures of the table and, later, the rhythms of high-tech dance clubs prolong la dolce vita.

Peace and tranquility are rare commodities in the town of Capri, but in the nearby hillside town of Anacapri and the surrounding countryside, the island's natural beauty and ancient Roman ruins still shine in the summer sun.

Two-Faced Capri

Capri town - A party has been pulsing in Capri for nearly two millennia, since Tiberius ruled the Roman empire. Live like an emperor in your own villa. Dine in a different room, terrace or garden for each meal in the multi-level, four-bedroom Villa Il Sole overlooking the south of Capri. Weekly rates from $22,000. The author's stay at Villa L'Eremo was rather exclusive, but nearby is Villa Eremo (also sleeps eight) perched above Marina Piccola. Rates from $23,000. www.vaanyc.com

For those with plebeian budgets but aristocratic tastes, try the Hotel Weber Ambassador, whose beach is only steps from Marina Piccola. The hotel will pick you up at the ferry and offers a free shuttle into town, 20 hours a day. Rates from $130. www.hotelweber.com

Save on transportation and spend on dinner. Try La Savardina de Edoardo, where inspired dishes are made with local ingredients.

Anacapri: A single road and footpath bisect the sheer mountain cliffs that divide the island. Anacapri has long been a seat for farmers and artisans. Enjoy the respite and unpack at the intimate and exquisite early-19th-century Villa Le Scale. Rent the entire eight-suite villa, fully staffed, from $8,935 a day (www.vaanyc.com), or just a single suite when available. Rates from $350. www.villalescale.com. Or, check in to Hotel Caesar Augustus. Rates from $460. www.caesar-augustus.com

Bring Back: Lemon trees are part of the Campania landscape (to which Capri belongs). Their fragrant fruit is ubiquitous: drizzled on grilled fish, tossed in fresh pasta, baked into cakes and frozen into sweet granita. But on Capri, the lemon's most common form is as an after-dinner (or lunch) digestivo known as limoncello. Served freezer-cold and in a tiny frosted glass, artfully-bottled limoncello finds its way into many a visitor's carry-on bag to be shared at home with friends. Be warned: Limoncello, made with organic lemon zest, pure alcohol, sugar and water, can deliver a nefarious hangover.

 Plan Your Trip

SIGHTSEEING

The road that climbs from the main town of Capri to Anacapri offers views of the Gulf of Naples, from the Sorrentine Peninsula to Ischia that are simply stunning. The drive takes less than 15 minutes, so if you want to savor the panoramas (and it's not too hot), consider walking (it will take 45 minutes or so) and ponder the fact that for most of history, the two towns were linked only by Scala Fenicia, a staircase carved out of the rock cliffs. At Piazza della Vittoria, ride the chairlift up Mount Solaro for another sweeping view, then return to the piazza and visit the nearby Villa San Michele, the former home of Swedish author-physician Axel Munthe and now a tasteful museum.

DINING

After decades of foreign (mostly French) influence, the island's kitchens have returned to their Mediterranean roots - fish seasoned with olive oil, squid (often prepared with a cheese filling and a tomato sauce), pasta with fresh veggies, ravioli (the island version features pasta made only with flour and water, served with a tomato sauce and fresh basil), and Capri's trademark dish, insalata caprese, a classic salad of sliced tomato, mozzarella, fresh basil leaves, dressed with olive oil.

SHOPPING

Capri traces the history of its first perfumes to the Carthusian monks in the 14th century. The ancient formulas were rediscovered in 1948, so the story goes, and are the basis for a series of distinctive scents from Carthusia Profumi di Capri (on Via Camerelle) including the jasmine-scented Gelsomini di Capri and Caprissimo, made from 25 of the island's flowers.

 Forums

 News & Events