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Overview
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More than 1,100 islands lie off the coast of Croatia, and for many visitors the crown jewel of this Adriatic archipelago is Korcula. The island, along with the rest of the isles in the Dalmatian chain, managed to escape the violence of the sad and lengthy conflict that followed the breakup of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, and today travelers are once again returning to rediscover Korcula's charms. Likely as not, they begin in Korcula town, where a network of narrow, cobbled streets dating to the 8th-century line this walled medieval fortress. Not surprisingly, here at the edge of the Mediterranean, Greeks were the island's earliest settlers. But it was the Venetians who left a lasting stamp in the old town, with its own St. Mark's Cathedral - a perfect setting for the carnival celebrations and masked balls held from January to Ash Wednesday.
Much of the island outside the town is covered with pine forest, and while beaches are not the main attraction here, there is a nice sandy strand at Lumbarda, at the southeastern end of the island. Sailors, meanwhile, love these islands, where the winds are steady and anchorages plentiful. Some of them say the islands here remind them of Greece, say 30 or 40 years ago...
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Plan Your Trip
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SAILING Early summer (May to July) is the prime sailing season in the Croatian islands (calmer conditions prevail in mid-summer), and the countless coves and bays in these waters attract cruising sailors from all across Europe. Both bareboat and chartered yachts are available, and from Korcula it's easy sailing to the islands of Hvar (which boasts the most sunshine of any Croatian island), Brac (with perhaps the Adriatic's best beach), Vis (where divers can explore a half-dozen shipwrecks) and nearby Bisevo (which has its own "Blue Grotto" sea cave).
DINING
Croatia is surf-and-turf country, with seafood and meat headlining most menus. On the Dalmatian islands, however, it would be a crime to miss such Mediterranean-influenced fish courses as brodet (a spicy fish-and-rice stew), lobsters, squid risotto, and zkampa (yes, scampi). For a trio of dry white wines, look for Grk, Posip, and Rukatac.
DAY TRIP
Sometimes called "the Madeira of the Adriatic," Hvar is an island of vineyards and lavender fieldsand a town that still mirrors its Venetian past, including one of the oldest theaters in Europe. The architecture, some dating to the 17th and 18th centuries, is striking, and the views of neighboring islands from the fortress atop the old are unforgettable. Hvar isn't exactly a daytrip from Korcula, but it's worth the journey
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