Overview

Time to Be Laid-Back and Give Back
In a world where even small remote islands have become popular tourist destinations, it's increasingly rare to find a sizable South Pacific isle that has remained largely undeveloped. And therein lies the basic charm of Vanua Levu, the second largest among Fiji's 300 or so islands.

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Just over 100 miles long Vanua Levu (pronounced vah-NEW-ah LAY-vu) is a good base for adventurous souls who prefer rainforest hikes, bird-watching, and snorkeling to, say, golf, tennis, and spas. The interior of the island is rugged, and green fields of sugar cane cover the north and west coasts like a scene from long ago Hawaii. Gaze across the gloriously blue waters of vast Savusavu Bay (fine windsurfing, by the way), and you may find it hard to understand why there aren't more visitors.

Yachties long ago discovered the bay surrounded by steep hills, and although some new small-but-luxurious resorts have sprung up in recent years, Vanua Levu is still off the beaten track. The small (population 2,800) waterfront town at Savusavu is best described as rustic, the yacht club is the favorite local hangout, and the classic local market (fruits, fish, veggies, woven baskets and mats) is always worth a stop on Saturdays. Sounds almost like the old South Seas, doesn't it?

Vanua Levu is on our list of the Best Islands to Live On

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DIVING

With the world-renowned reefs of Taveuni Island on the nearby horizon, it can be easy to overlook Vanua Levu's underwater attractions - which include more of the very same coral-carpeted walls and reefs. Vanua Levu has its own Shark Alley (swimthroughs hosting some local white-tip reef sharks) and Magic Mountain (a large coral-and-sponge adorned pinnacle that reaches within 12 feet of the surface) - just a sampling of seldom-seen dive sites along the barrier reef between Vanua Levu and Taveuni.

FISHING

Wahoo, yellowfin tuna, mahi-mahi, marlin ... the stuff of deep- water dreams swim through Fiji's blue waters year-round. May through August is arguably the best big-game season, and while the country's main charter fleet operates out of the main island of Viti Levu (often heading for the waters off the island's southern and southwestern coasts) smaller outfitters are available through- out the island chain, including some resorts that operate their own boats.

CULTURE

Vacationing at a fine resort certainly has its rewards, but staying at a Fijian village is a window to real Fijian life that shouldn't be limited to savvy backpackers. There are numerous villages all around Vanua Levu, tours are easy to arrange, and some villages offer stays on a more or less regular basis. But it's also common to be invited to stay in a village by a relatively new acquaintance, and perhaps because visitors here are not all that common, the villagers themselves are notably welcoming even for friendly Fiji. Bring a traditional gift of yaqona root (kava) for the village chief, and slip into a simpler life-style.

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