Overview

The legendary backpackers' paradise of Ko Phi Phi is certainly not the Thai backwater it was a decade or so ago. But progress (translation: hotels, dive centers, and beachfront bars) hasn't obliterated its essential allure.

Ko Phi Phi (pronounced ko-pee-pee) is actually two islands: Dramatically beautiful Phi Phi Don, with its long, soft-sand beaches and limestone cliffs rising from the sea, has grown into a resort offering both simple bungalows and larger hotels. Phi Phi Le, no less beautiful and only a short boat ride from its larger sister island, has no accommodations at all.

What's there to do? During the day, not much - and that's the point. Sure, the cliffs have drawn world-class rock climbers, and kayaking and diving are available, but the real attraction is no surprise: the beaches. This is a place to unwind, read a book, enjoy good Thai food, and spend time in, near, or under the water - at least until dark, when the bars come to life.

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BEACHES

Maya Bay, on Phi Phi Le, was the film set for The Beach, but the sweeping sandy crescent at Ao Lo Dalom (ao means "bay"), on Phi Phi Don, actually has more beach frontage (and more tourist distractions), palm trees, warm blue water, and sheer cliffs form one of the most dramatic backdrops in the island world. You can't help but give in to a beach state of mind here.

DIVING

The visibility can be limited, and the coral reefs are not as pristine as some, but nearly a dozen dive centers in Phi Phi Don attest to the presence of reefs (particularly at Hat Yao, near the southeastern end of the Phi Phi Don), walls, caves - and occasional whale sharks - that keep most divers happy. Even dive operators from Phuket and Krabi run trips here. If you prefer to snorkel, the view's not bad either: The vast lagoons are home to such creatures as sea whips, bannerfish, and the venomous crown-of-thorns starfish.

KAYAKING

You can rent kayaks along most of Phi Phi Don's main beach, but a better bet may be to sign up for a daylong kayaking tour to Phi Phi Le. You'll get a local's insight, plenty of snorkeling time, and the chance to paddle with - or swim beside - benign black-tip reef sharks.

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