Three decades ago, when Cancun didn't have a single hotel and Cozumel was just becoming famous as a diving paradise, neighboring Isla Mujeres was a small, sleepy, seldom-visited Mexican Caribbean hideaway. And by and large, it still is.
Development has transformed the Mexican Caribbean, but Isla Mujeres, less than half-hour by boat from Cancun, still is holding onto some of that old, small-fishing-village, kick-back-in-the-hammock Mexico character. There are a couple of newer, somewhat upscale inns, but for now the island is still geared more to low-key days of snorkeling (notably the reefs of El Garrafon National Park near the southern tip), fishing (the energy level does pick up during annual international fishing tournaments), and beach time - followed by nights of live music and tequila bars.
A moped, bike, or golf cart is best way to do a little sightseeing (the ruins of a small Maya temple on a sea bluff and a sea turtle farm, both at the southern end of the island, are the main attractions). If you want travel a bit farther afield, the stunningly beautiful coastline of the Riviera Maya is another short boat trip away on the nearby Quintana Roo coastline. And after all that planning, it's just about siesta time again....
Dreaming on Isla Mujeres: Stay at the Casa de los Sueños, a nest of colorful serenity tucked away on the leeward coast. It has kayaks, snorkel gear and a dining room that overlooks the sea. Rates from $300, www.casadelossuenosresort.com. From the hotel, it's a $5 taxi ride downtown, but it's a short walk to Playa Lancheros, where you should order the tikin xic. This fish dish can easily feed four. Sign up for a whale-shark tour available from June to September. Tours are operated by licensed boats and cost $125 per person. www.islamujeresturismo.com
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