Overview

Sail away. That probably should be the license plate motto on Tortola, the sailing center of the Caribbean's favorite cruising grounds, the British Virgin Islands. Whether you're an experienced sailor planning to "bareboat" your way from island to island, or look forward to hiring a skippered ("leave the driving to us") yacht, or just out for a day sail, the harbor at Road Town is the perfect place to start: The winds are usually steady, the sailing is easy, and there's always a buffet line of nearby islands to choose from.

But Tortola is the one island in the BVI that calls for some extended shore leave. Driving around the island's steep and winding mountain roads is not for the faint of heart, but the views are breathtaking. Some of the finest beaches in the entire island chain are here (the best, Cane Garden Bay and Long Bay, are on the north shore, where surfers also head to Apple Bay), and the restaurants are some of the most highly regarded in the Caribbean. Shopping and nightlife tend to be low-key, but you'll find a reggae-steady assortment of small clubs in Road Town (waterfront capital of the BVI) and in beach bars around the island.

Just don't expect high-rise hotels and casinos. Much less developed than its counterparts in the USVI, Tortola is an island that has kept its quiet, West Indian feel reason enough to slow down here, and get to know the island.

 Plan Your Trip

BEACHES

Tortola has a bevy of beautiful beaches, but for some coral reef snorkeling in a lush, somewhat out-of-the-way setting, get thee to Brewer's Bay. The beach itself isn't as spectacular as nearby Cane Garden Bay, but you'll appreciate the shade, and the setting is pure West Indian.

SAILING

Tortola may be the sailing center of the Virgin Islands, but many bareboaters simply hoist the anchor and set sail to windward to Virgin Gorda, before swinging back westward through the islands for the return to Road Town. Just make sure you leave some time for a stop on Tortola's North Shore at Cane Garden Bay. It's probably the nicest stretch of sand in the BVI, and you can enjoy a last round of Painkillers (the favorite local concoction combines rum, pineapple and orange juices, and cream of coconut) at the beach bars. As evening falls, listen to the music wafting offshore from Quito's Gazebo, and then decide if you really want to sail off with the morning tide.

NIGHTLIFE

Bomba's Shack at Cappoon's Bay, presided over by the redoubtable Bomba himself, has live entertainment a couple of nights a week but it is famous throughout the West Indies for its wild, sometimes notorious full moon parties. The rum punches are plentiful, but most well-meaning locals will advise you against sampling Bomba's mushroom tea, unless you're totally committed to pushing the party envelope.

 Travel Specials

 Where to Stay

 Forums

 Related Articles