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Destinations / Crete

Crete

Overview

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Crete could certainly fit into a leisurely, ferry-hopping beach holiday through the Greek islands, but that's giving short shrift to a place that is so rich with history, archaeological treasures, and an intrinsically Mediterranean landscape. Greece's largest island, it has seen burgeoning tourism (and the companion development of major resort areas, particularly on the north coast), but remains a land of remote villages where Zorba the Greek would feel right at home.

In summer it's very hot and the number of visitors can be overwhelming in July and August, but a sense of timelessness falls over much of the island in late spring (when wildflowers fill the hillsides) and early fall, when it's much more comfortable to explore the subtleties of early Minoan civilization at Knossos Palace and the nearby archaeological museum in Iraklion.

Crete's cities are loaded with cafés, clubs, and nightlife that can go on well into the morning, but wiser travelers will soon make their way to the countryside of mountain villages and small coastal towns of the western end of the island. It's the greenest, most mountainous part of the island, and a place where you can spend days walking (on hiking trails among the best in the Mediterranean) without seeing another soul - and end the day with a traditional Cretan meal in a small taverna far from the sights and sounds of the tourist world.

Photos courtesy explorecrete.com

Plan your trip

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HIKING

The Samaria Gorge is just one of about 50 gorges that cut the landscape of the White Mountains in western Crete, but it is justifiably the island's best-loved trek, in part because it's downhill all the way. Get an early start in Omalos (the trail can get crowded in high season), descend the xiloskala (wooden staircase) and follow the stream as it flows over and around boulders on its way to the sea, past the deserted village of Samaria. At journey's end (about 9 miles of hiking) reward yourself with a seafood dinner in the village of Agia Roumeli.

SIGHTSEEING

About three miles south of Iraklion, Crete's main city, the ruins of the Palace of Knossos are a window to the Minoan civilization that thrived here about 3,500 years ago. The frescos (on display in Iraklion's fine archaeological museum) and mosaics found here give life to the island's ancient ruler, King Minos, and the legend of the labyrinth and the minotaur. To pay homage to a contemporary storyteller, go to the city's south wall to visit the grave of Nikos Kazantzakis, author of Zorba the Greek.

DINING

Dinner in Crete usually doesn't begin before 9 o'clock, so you'll have plenty of daylight to work up an appetite for the traditionally hearty fare: lamb or goat grilled (or in a stew), fish, and the freshest of vegetables. Olive oil is the common denominator in every dish, along with a touch of herbs and, perhaps, lemon. Don't miss the local cheeses (the feta-like myzithra is a favorite), and expect the offer of a glass of high- octane raki (similar to Italian grappa) when you ask for the bill.
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