Overview

The hills are alive with the sound of music. And so are the concert halls, parks, and pubs, because traditional Celtic music is the very heartbeat of this scenic slice of Nova Scotia. Scottish and French immigrants settled this island of forested mountains and valleys, and their musical heritage can be heard in festivals throughout the summer. The fiddle rules here (a savvy traveler would listen to CDs from Natalie MacMaster and Ashley MacIssac to get in the proper spirit before arriving), and dances can last well into the night.

But save some energy for the daylight hours, because this island possesses some of the most beautiful scenery on Canada's Atlantic Coast. And to see it, hit the trails. The "trails" in this case are two classic driving routes that showcase the best of the island.

The Cabot Trail, one of the world's most scenic drives, takes to the highlands and follows the rocky shore of the East Coast. The route takes you through Cape Breton Highlands National Park (hiking trails galore) and offers a good chance of seeing moose and whales in the same afternoon. For a more historical and cultural itinerary, follow the Ceilidh Trail. If you know that a ceilidh is pronounced KAY-lee, you likely know it's Celtic for a musical happening. The Ceilidh Trail winds through farmlands and fishing villages, where museums tell the story of the island and its people - and where the sounds of a fiddle is never very far away.

 Plan Your Trip

GOLF

Built in the 1930s and thoughtfully restored in 1997, the Highlands Links, stretching from rocky headlands to forested glens, is often called the finest course in Canada. It's part of Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and the views of sea and mountains are memorable. So are subtleties of the course itself, with swales and bunkers that bring to mind tradtional links courses an ocean away in Scotland. And it's just one of four fine courses on the island...

NATURE

You can go whale watching here (it's a big attraction), but how often do you get a chance to go puffin watching? Summer tours from Englishtown sail to the aptly named Bird Islands in less than an hour, a trip that also brings sightings of eagles, seabirds, seals, dolphins, and, yes, whales.

CULTURE

Music festivals are a part of the summer landscape all across Cape Breton, but few islands showcase their finest talents in free concerts. The Granville Green outdoor series held Sundays through July and August in Port Hawkesbury has featured Ashley MacIssac, J.P. Cormier, and other top performers - all without admission charges. Bring a blanket and arrive early.

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