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Destinations / Elba

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Overview

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You have to wonder about Napoleon. There he was, comfortably settled on an island just six miles off the coast of Tuscany - and all he could think about was France. Granted, he was in exile, but he was virtually the emperor of Elba during his 10 months on the island. And he what did he give it up for? Waterloo.

You don't have to be an emperor to appreciate Elba these days. The island's eastern end was long an industrial wasteland of iron mines, and it wasn't until the last 30 years, after the iron ores gave out, that the natural beauty of the rest of the island was rediscovered by Italian tourists.
Today about half this unpretentious island is a nature preserve, attracting a new generation of hikers (the view from the highest peak, Monte Capanne, takes in not only the Italian mainlaind but a quartet of islands, including Corsica) and mountain bikers. (a 14-mile, single-track trail follows the crest of the island from Marciana).

Beaches? More than 50 of them, some sweeping strands blessed with golden sand (the most popular scattered along the southern coast), others lined with smooth rocks and sheltered by seacliffs. There are also castles, Roman ruins, and charming hill towns to explore (brush up on your Italian, because English speakers are scarce) - and plan on working up an appetite. This is Tuscany, after all.

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BEACHES

It's hard to beat Marina di Campo, with more than a mile of fine golden sand, but one environmental group has called Marciana Marina the best beach in Italy. It isn't the sand (the shore is lined with small, smooth stones), but the water is clear and pristine, and the marina is the kayaking center of the island. (Paddle west to see one of the island's most beautiful shorelines.)

SIGHTSEEING

Most of the remote northwestern tip of Elba near Cabo Vita is accessible only by the sea (sailors love it when this happens). But head west from Bagnaia (where the views from an 11th-century fortress are superb) to San Giovanni (home to a popular thermal spa), then stop for lunch in the island's main town, Portoferraio. If it's spring, continue a short ways west to Capo Bianco, where the lovely coastline is adorned with an abundance of wildflowers.

DINING

Seafood, Tuscan-style ... tempting? Start with a simple salad of shellfish drizzled with olive oil, followed by a black risotto (cuttlefish is the main ingredient, with its ink added to the rice at the end). Some restaurants allow you to choose your own fish (to grill or bake), and if you are on in the island in autumn, don't miss the fresh-from-the-forest porcini mushrooms. As for wine, skip the chianti and savor an Elba rosso (mostly sangiovese grapes) or with shellfish, a Ansonica bianco.
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