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Destinations / Molokai

See the new at-a-glance ISLANDS Best Travel Guide: Molokai

Molokai

Overview

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Vibrant Views From the Home of Hula
From the western shore of Molokai, you can gaze across the channel to the island of Oahu -- but the world of Waikiki is light years from this quiet "Friendly Island." Considered the birthplace of the hula, Molokai is where native Hawaiian culture has been woven most thoroughly into daily life. As a result, the place moves at its own languid pace.


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On assignment for ISLANDS, Brian Berusch recently visited Molokai to find out how to string together the best sites and stops for a great Hawaiian road trip. He started in Kaunakakai and ended in Maunaloa Town, doing some backtracking and loops along the way. He often felt like the sole visitor on the island. Read more.

By Brian Berusch
Photos by Linny Morris
From the March 2008 issue of Islands

Plan your trip

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Stay at a handful of small hotels and condominiums. The only town, three-block-long Kaunakakai, would look at home on a Wyoming back road. Recreational activities tend to be low-key too.

Eat at Kualapuu Cookhouse, where the lamb with maple-syrup demiglaze and baby back ribs with homemade guava-barbecue sauce are just a mere hint of the offerings.

Wake up with the Coffees of Hawaii Molokai Plantation in Kualapuu. Take the espresso tour or a guided mule tour of the coffee fields.

See the sea cliffs of Molokai's Na Pali Coast, the highest in the world. For more than 135 years, they served to isolate Kalaupapa, the island's seaside leper colony -- one of the most hauntingly beautiful places in the islands.

Visit Molokai's finest beaches -- Papohaku, Kepuhi and Kawakiu, which have broad expanses of uncrowded sand. High surf and currents can sometimes make swimming hazardous, but a moderate hike on the northwest corner of the island will take you to the secluded cove at Moomomi Beach, where you can swim year-round.

Ride a mule down the spectacular trail to the Kalaupapa Peninsula, but the 1,700-foot descent (with 26 switchbacks) is also a great hike - of course, you do have to hike back up. Take the fascinating tour of the community, which was established as a leper colony in 1866, served by the famed Belgian priest Father Damien.

Saddle up and play paniolo (Hawaiian for "cowboy") at Puu O Hoku, a 14,000-acre cattle ranch where lush pastures give way to tropical forests; a guided trail-ride offers the chance to see axis deer up close and humpback whales cavorting offshore.

Fly a kite at Big Wind Kite Factory where owner Jonathan Socher offers free flying lessons with the factory's handmade kites at one of the most scenic vistas on the western plateau.

Learn more at gohawaii.com/molokai.

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