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Destinations / Nevis

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Overview

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In the days when sugar was the engine that drove the economy of the West Indies, Nevis was known as the "Queen of the Caribbees." That was a tribute in part to the island's natural beauty, and also to the glittering social life in the plantation houses - a time epitomized by the courtship of a dashing young British naval officer, Horatio Nelson, and his soon-to-be-bride, Fanny Nisbet. What's remarkable about Nevis is that it has lost neither its natural heritage nor its sense of history.

Until recently those plantation houses, transformed into stylish, intimate country inns, set the mood for visitors to this small, laid-back island which is joined with neighboring St. Kitts to form the region's smallest country. Then a few years ago, with the opening of a major resort (complete with a championship golf course that ranks among the most scenic in the Caribbean), tourism got a jump-start on this largely agricultural island. But away from the resort, Nevis remains much as it was - a place where the eco-tourist can explore some of the best hiking in the West Indies, a history buff can take a walking tour of Charlestown, an equestrian can choose from nearly a dozen trail rides, and a place where a day at the horse races (and a downhill course from start to finish) is a Caribbean day to remember.

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BEACHES

A pinney for your thoughts ... and sand. Pinney's Beach, miles of sugar-soft white sand lined by coconut palms is Nevis's finest. The shallow, calm water is just right for swimming, and while you'll have no problem finding an uncrowded stretch all to yourself, you can also meander down to a restaurant or beach shack for a midday snack.

HIKING

Scaling Nevis Peak is an all-day undertaking (and often visually disappointing because clouds near the summit usually obscure the view). For an easier outing - and a chance to spot one of the island's many (but skittish) African green monkeys - take a walk along the Upper Round Road. Built in the sugar cane heydays of the 1600s, this 9-mile trail now circumnavigates about two-thirds of the island, passing through rain forest and open fields with spectacular coastal views of the west coast.

SIGHTSEEING

If Alexander Hamilton seems like an old friend (he's on the U.S. $10 bill, after all), you can pay homage at his birthplace on the waterfront in Charlestown. The Georgian-style house is actually a replica (the original, built in 1680, was hammered by a hurricane in the 19th century), and it now houses the small but interesting Museum of Nevis History. For a look at another great figure from the past, visit the Horatio Nelson Museum south of Charlestown; exhibits include paintings and furniture from the admiral's flagship.
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