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Destinations / North Carolina

Outer Banks

Overview

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The Outer Banks have always been defined by wind. The Wright brothers came to Kitty Hawk to make their first flight into history, and these days hang-gliders (who take off at Jockey's Ridge, the coast's highest sand dune) and windsurfers (at Canadian Hole near Avon) love those same steady breezes. (Golfers, particularly at the Nags Head and Sea Scape links courses, might have different sentiments.)

Once known as the "Graveyard of the Atlantic" for its stormy, shipwreck-laded shoals, this 75-mile-long string of narrow barrier islands off North Carolina is home to some of the country's most famous lighthouses.

But there is more to these islands than just wind. History abounds: The first colonists from England settled here - and mysteriously disappeared, a historical footnote celebrated at Fort Raleigh on Roanoke Island (easily toured by bike path). And Blackbeard the pirate, who often sought refuge at Ocracoke, was killed here in 1718. But the soul of these islands is the Cape Hatteras National Seashore (the nation's first), stretching from Nags Head south to Ocracoke Island. The miles of unspoiled beaches are the perfect prescription for unhurried beach walks, shelling, fishing, surfing (some of the best on the East Coast), or just watching the birds fly by.

Plan your trip

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FISHING

Sure, you can hop a boat and head offshore to the Gulf Stream for a chance at a marlin in summer, but the essence of the Outer Banks fishing is standing on a miles-long stretch of sand, casting out beyond the surf for red drum (Cape Point, where you can drive on the beach, is a time-honored hotspot) and bluefish. Peak season is usually late fall, from October to Thanksgiving.

NATURE

Don't forget the bird books and binoculars. Fall and winter are the best times to tour the nature trails and observation towers at Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge on northern Hatteras. It's a pit stop for migrating waterfowl on the Atlantic Flyway, with more than 250 species (snow geese, ducks, herons, and shore birds are regulars) recorded here. For another side of the 5,915-acre refuge, take a kayak or canoe journey through the calm salt marshes and backwaters.

SIGHTSEEING

Lighthouse lovers have a field day here. At present, visitors can climb only the Currituck Beach Lighthouse (1875). But the famed black-and-white spiraled tower of the famed Cape Hatteras Lighthouse in Buxton (1870) is expected to reopen to tours after repairs. However, there is a visitors' center in the restored keeper's quarters at the Bodie Island Lighthouse (1872), and the state's oldest lighthouse, the whitewashed tower at Ocracoke (1823) is closed, but is still a favorite.

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