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Destinations / Porquerolles

Overview

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Longing for the bygone, uncrowded days of the Cote de Azur? Look no further than offshore, to Iles d'Hyeres, a trio of islands that still proffer the best of the South of France: long days of sun, warm water, and Provencal cuisine. The largest and most popular of the group is Porquerolles, which in 1912 was purchased as a wedding present by a wealthy Frenchman - who promptly planted a large vineyard. Today the island and its small village remain a place where the good things in life (food, wine, sailing) are still the cornerstones of day-to-day living.

A 20-minute ferry ride from the mainland near Toulon, the island is only 5 miles long and best traveled by mountain bike or on foot (cars are strictly limited). The only beaches are scattered along the northern coast, and while sandy Plage de Notre Dame gets it full share of midsummer visitors, you'll never mistake it for St. Tropez. A gentle coastal path borders the shoreline, continuing around to the dramatic seacliffs and rocky coves of the southern coast, where you'll find the best snorkeling. Offshore divers can explore some of the best wreck dives in the Mediterranean.

Diving is also the main attraction at sister isle Port-Cros, a national park (with 20 miles of nature trails) surrounded by Europe's first marine park. And while most of neighboring Levant is occupied by the military, part of the island has long been a favorite with beach-loving nudists. In summer, the nightlife in these islands (sometimes called Iles d'Or, or Golden Isles), lasts well into the night at a handful of bars and discos - another longtime Cote de Azur tradition.

Plan your trip

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SAILING

The Porquerolles Cup, highlight of a Mediterranean week of sailing races and parties during Pentecost, celebrates a moment of 18th-century history that seems straight out of a Hollywood swashbuckler. In 1726, pirates captured a French naval vessel off the island, but agreed to release the ship's crew ... if the pirate ship lost a race to another French vessel. History says the navy sailed to victory (although the fate of the pirates is a little vague). To honor the tradition of the original race, today's competition gets off to a running start - literally, with the sailors running to their boats.

DINING

Ah, the pleasures of the Provencal table ... bouillabaisse thick with shellfish, aioli (garlic-flavored mayonnaise), ratatouille (eggplant, squash, and tomatoes with olive oil), and, to highlight the meal, fine wine from a trio of island vineyards. The rose is best known (Porquerolles produced one of the first recognized Cotes de Provence wines), but the reds and whites also have a distinctive character.

DAY TRIP

Levant is roughly the same size as Porquerolles, but it's an even more low-key island. Pack light, because it's a steep but scenic 20-minute walk from the ferry landing to the small village of Arbousiers, where cafe-lined terraces are set against the backdrop of the sea. North of the village, follow a series of nature trails through the Mediterranean maquis to the rocky coast. You can pack even lighter for this hike, because two of the beaches here, Bain de Diane and Plage des Grottes (the island's only sandy shore), are nude beaches.

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