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Destinations / Sardinia

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Overview

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If you judge an island's beauty by its shoreline, a dramatic meeting of land and sea, then Sardinia is not only Italy's most beautiful isle, but perhaps the Mediterranean's. The most famous stretch of that shoreline is the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast), where sheer granite cliffs fall into a gem-like sea of clear blue water. It's not surprising that this coastline is one of the most popular summer getaways in Italy, and in July and August square footage for beach towels comes at a premium.

But in spring, when the island's wild landscape is softened by wildflowers, and in fall, when the crowds have left, Sardinia is one of the true treasures of the Mediterranean. Most European visitors seldom venture far from the beach near their hotel/apartment/yacht. So much the better for those who prefer secluded beaches (including miles of white-sand dunes at Chia, near the southern tip of the island).

Even better for adventurous souls wanting to explore the rustic inland mountain villages, where a distinctive cuisine and colorful folk festivals, are key threads in the cultural tapestry. You'll need a car to explore the island, but hiking through the sheep-dotted mountains (inevitably described as "rugged") is an absolutely memorable way to experience this remote (by European standards) Italian isle, where the local dialect is unintelligible even to visiting Italians.

Plan your trip

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SIGHTSEEING

Nobody knows exactly where they came from, but the settlers who came to the island about 1500 B.C. built a remarkable network of more than 25,000 stone fortresses known as nuraghi.
Today about 7,000 of the truncated cone structures remain, and for a look at the most spectacular, head to Barumini in the center of the southern part of the island, about halfway between the capital of Caligari and Oristano. The site, complete with a three-story Bronze Age tower with a vaulted chamber was named to Unesco's World Heritage List in 1997.

CULTURE

Sardinia's calendar is filled year-round with some of the most colorful folk festivals in the Mediterranean, and for sheer excitement, few can match the breakneck horse races that bring Carnival to a close in February in the streets of Santu Lussurgiu (and a handful of other towns). Another contender? In July, the town of Sedilo commemorates a 4th-century battle with three days of horse races around the Sanctuary of St. Antine.

DINING

Strange that a Mediterranean island's cuisine would derive its culinary traditions not from the sea but the land, but that's the case on Sardinia, where roasting pigs and goats luau-like in underground pits is a time-honored tradition, and breads and pastas are imaginative staples. Try the Sardinian version of ravioli, culingiones, ball-shaped and stuffed with spinach (or beet tops), pecorino cheese (or ricotta), sometimes potatoes and even saffron.
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