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Destinations / Sicily

Sicily

Overview

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Think of Sicily as the Mediterranean's stewpot. The largest island in that sea, it has been ruled by Greeks, Romans, Africans, Arabs, by knights from Normandy and kings from Spain. And all left a lasting impression, a kind of crossroads culture, on the island and its people - who have been called the most Italian of the Italians.

Sicily is a treasure trove of the past: more ancient Greek temples than Greece, the finest Roman mosaics in the world (at Piazza Armerina), and castles and churches from the Middle Ages. But this is also a land of great natural beauty, from smoldering Mount Etna looming over the narrow Strait of Messina that separates the island from Italy to central valleys filled with spring wildflowers and dramatic rocky shorelines that shelter fine, seldom crowded beaches.

There are those who will tell you the food alone is reason enough to visit Sicily. Spicier, sweeter, bolder, more intense than most Italian fare, it draws on the flavors of Africa as easily as those of Europe. And the best way to taste the food - indeed, get the flavor of the island itself - is to explore the countryside. It's where the Sicily of old still thrives.

Plan your trip

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SIGHTSEEING

The Greeks were drawn to the island's southern coast, the Sicily that faces Africa, and these days it attracts travelers who like to combine a morning of culture and an afternoon at the beach. In Agrigento, the ancient Greek temples overlooking the sea are the island's leading archaeological site; for historical perspective, stop at the National Archaeology Museum downtown and look at the impressive collection of vases and statues found here. Then relax on the uncrowded sands of nearby Sciacca, a fishing port best known for its thermal spa and ceramic art.

CULTURE

Pick any month of the calendar and Sicilians will be celebrating a festival somewhere on the island, from Catholic feast days to carnivals to colorful folk festivals (your best bet to find traditional Sicilian music and dance). For a taste of the religious atmosphere, go during Holy Week in April, when men in hooded robes carry floats through village streets. Or go medieval in Piazza Armerina, a town in central Sicily, where the days of August bring a colorful jousting pageant.

DINING

Forget about thick-crust pizza. Instead, start a Sicilian meal to remember with an aperitif: a glass of marsala secco, a dry version of the port-like wine originally from the western part of the island. Ready? For an appetizer, try caponata, a classic salad of eggplant, olives, capers, celery capers, olives, celery, and tomatoes. Then sample the island's most traditional dish, pasta con sarde, flavored with sardines, wild fennel, saffron, and pine nuts. Staying with seafood, savor some grilled swordfish (seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and oregano. Dessert? A light lemon granita, or crushed ice. Buon appetito.
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