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Destinations / St. John

St. John

Overview

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It's not hard to fall in love with an island. In the 1950s an American sailor fell hard for the beautiful bays, beaches, and steep hills of St. John, and because the sailor happened to be Laurance Rockefeller, he bought more than half of the island. Luckily for all of us, Rockefeller gave away most of his purchase to help create Virgin Islands National Park.

Today that 11,000-acre park is an oasis of untrammeled nature in the U. S. Virgin Islands. You'll need a 4X4 to cover most of the island, and seasoned visitors to the island often arrive with both hiking boots and swim fins in their suitcase. The boots come in handy for hiking more than 20 miles of trails (some leading to perhaps the most scenic secluded beaches in the Caribbean), and the fins are a ticket to fabulous snorkeling in the park's underwater territory (another 5,600 acres). Kayaking, windsurfing, mountain bike and horseback riding, rock climbing ... there's no problem finding ways to burn calories here, but the emphasis is really life at a slower pace.

St. John does have restaurants, waterfront bars, and shopping in the small town of Cruz Bay, although if that's really what you're looking for, St. Thomas, just 5 miles away by ferry, is a much better bet. But for a place to kick back on world-class beaches set against a serene natural setting and let time just stop for awhile, St. John is a love affair to remember.

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BEACHES

For its size, St. John may just have the most impressive collection of beaches in the Caribbean. Trunk Bay, a travel-poster-perfect sweep of sand with a marked snorkeling trail offshore is the most popular, but it can get crowded at midday with day-tripping cruise ship passengers from St. Thomas. Nearby Cinnamon Bay and Hawksnest Beach are also stellar strands - and less crowded. For even more seclusion, take the trail less traveled from town to Salomon Bay (an unofficial nudist stretch) and Honeymoon Bay. The reef offshore between them has the north shore's best snorkeling.

DIVING

Grab your snorkel, because much of the best underwater sights St. John has to offer are in shallow water. A favorite with locals is Flanagan's Cay, located just off the southeastern coast, where you can swim around coral heads 10 to 12 feet high in water only about 20 feet deep. Oh, yes, those locals include hawksbill turtles and spotted eagle rays (which the islanders call "flying saucers").

HIKING

For a look at the past, take the short (quarter-mile) stroll to the ruins of the Annaberg Plantation, where the remnants of slaves' quarters and a windmill tower hark back to the early 18th century, when sugarcane dominated the island. The views from the north coast toward Jost Van Dyke and Tortola are spectacular.
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