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Destinations / Vancouver Island

Vancouver

Overview

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Could a single island have both incomparable wilderness and a sophisticated, cosmopolitan city? Vancouver Island does. The island's wilderness, however, is not for the faint-hearted. Often cold and wet, Pacific Rim National Park Reserve has miles of drift- wood-strewn beaches; intrepid surfers ride the lonely waves at Long Beach, near Ucluelet; and kayakers favor the Broken Group Islands in Barkley Sound.

The West Coast Trail between Bamfield and Port Renfew offers challenging hiking (it was built originally to give shipwrecked sailors a chance for survival, because the rainforest here is impenetrable) and Discovery Passage is one of the premier scuba diving areas of the West Coast.

For a more genteel approach to nature, visit world-famous Butchart Gardens, 50 acres of floral finery blooming in a former quarry 13 miles north of Victoria. A wonderful city set around a beautiful harbor, Victoria is anchored by stately early 20th- century buildings, including The Empress, one of the last of the grand railroad hotels. Victoria is the civilized answer to the wild world beyond.

Plan your trip

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FISHING

For more than a century the town of Campbell River has earned its reputation as the "Salmon Capital of the World." Fish for chinook (king) salmon year-round, and if you catch one weighing more than 30 pounds (using traditional gear and following some strict rules), you may gain membership in the famed Tyee Club, based here for 76 years.

HIKING

The West Coast Trail is a majestic but grueling 45-mile hike for the very experienced only. For a dilly of a day hike, hit East Sooke's Coast Trail to Iron Mine Bay; it's rough (figure on about six hours for the six-mile trek), traversing windswept ocean bluffs and a rain forest wilderness.

SIGHTSEEING

A perfect day in Victoria starts by tracing the province's natural history at the Royal British Columbia Museum. A short walk will take you to Dalles Road, where a path along the seacliffs offers a view across the water to the snowy peaks of Washington's Olympic Peninsula. Head back to the harbor for a Victoria tradition - afternoon tea at The Empress. Explore the city's Chinatown (Canada's oldest), then dine harborside while gazing at the light-bedecked Parliament Buildings.

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