Wet burlap sacks are laid over the food and then covered with sand. Dinner is officially buried. Hinano (wearing flowers) breaks into a song with 30 volunteers while the ground smolders. When the basket is exhumed two hours later, we sing another chorus. Plates will be sold starting at 10:30 a.m. to raise money for a local educational program. The huge spread includes poisson cru, chicken fafa and po’e. It’s more earthy than spicy, more filling than flavory. And it’s more satisfying than any meal I’ve ever experienced.