The pavilion becomes a buzz of activity by 6:30 a.m. It will take a lot of hands to make this meal. The rocks glow like coals in the pit. Banana trunks are sliced and placed on, and around, the hot rocks (the water content of the trunks will generate steam, which cooks the food). I get a lesson in how to wring every bit of nourishment from coconut meat: It’s squeezed for milk and also mixed with flour before being wrapped in leaves (this will become bread). Fish, pork, chicken, breadfruit, potatoes — everything edible is placed in a big basket, which then goes into the hole.