The Remote Eden
Billed as the world's largest uplifted coral landmass and an island you've probably never heard of, Niue (pronounced "nee-OO-way") has something of a Garden of Eden-ish feel deep in the South Pacific. Captain Cook originally christened the islet, which is about the size of Washington, D.C., the "Savage Island" after a less-than-genial reception in 1774. Now also known as the "Rock of Polynesia," it's a self-governing island of about 1,500 people and has an association with New Zealand, where many of its people emigrate.

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ISLANDS contributing editor David Lansing recently visited Niue to see exactly how Eden-like it is for his article "The Remote Eden." He explored everything from the divine colors of the Avaiki Cave to the troublesome ugas. As well as, the most extraordinary natural swimming hole of the Limu Pools and even the coconut crabs always eager to pinch. Read the full story.

Fly first to Auckland, New Zealand (AKL) and then to Niue on Air New Zealand's weekly service. airnewzealand.com

Stay at the Matavai Resort, perched on cliffs above the ocean on the southwest coast of the island. This is the only real resort on Niue, and with 22 guest rooms (only six air-conditioned), it makes up almost half the available beds on the island, niueisland.com. If you want to spread out a bit, Coral Gardens Motel has five self- contained cabins not far from the Limu Pools, Avaiki and Palaha caves, and the Matapa Chasm. Even closer, there's an underwater natural cave on site. There are also free airport transfers and wire- less Internet. coralgardens.nu

Eat traditional Polynesian dishes, like taro and mango casserole, on buffet night at Jennas Café in Alofi. There may be only a dozen guests, but reservations are essential as she cooks only for the number of RSVPs she gets. Don't forget -- it's BYOB. The Wash- away Café on Avatele beach is about the only place open on Sundays. Willie grills up the best burger in the South Pacific.

Hike with Misa Kulatea on one of his nature walks through the rainforest to learn how locals on this isolated island have managed to survive for hundreds of years by foraging. Or join local conch- ologist Herman Tangaloailuga on a reef walk in Hikutavake. Herman has the most impressive shell collection on the island and not only points out how Niueans traditionally harvest the reefs but is also an expert in conservation and scientific study. You can book both tours through the Niue Tourism Office. niueisland.com

Dive at Snake Gully with Annie and Ian Gray of Niue Dive, the only certified dive center on the island. They can also take you to Ana Mahaga, with its large underwater caverns, where you'll likely spot ribbon eels, lion fish and white-tip reef sharks. Or book them for an afternoon dolphin trip and hang with the island's spinner dolphins. dive.nu

Explore the lunar landscape of jagged coral on the trail to Togo Chasm, ending at a little oasis complete with sandy beach and palm trees. Come mentally prepared -- the trail is only accessible by descending about 50 feet down a wooden ladder.

View the metaphorical paintings of Mark Cross, a renowned New Zealand artist who married a Niuean in 1978 and has painted and lived on the island, on and off, ever since. You can watch him work at his gallery in Alofi, when he's in residence, or view his work at the Matavai Resort.

Learn more about Niue's culture and history at niueisland.com.