Today, as it was for the buccaneers, the only way to get to Cocos is by boat. Divers, who make up the vast majority of visitors, usually arrive on live-aboard dive boats (a 9- or 10-day trip from the port of Puntarenas). If they go ashore, it's usually only to dry out for a spell. But exploring the 14-square-mile, virtually uninhabited island that Jacques Cousteau once called the most beautiful in the world isn't really a hardship. There are other Cocos Islands in the world (near Guam, Australia, and Mauritius to name a few), but there is only one "Shark Island. " That's a good thing, right?