I had heard whispers of haggerstone -- a tiny, remote, castaway island resort on the northern tip of Australia's Great Barrier Reef, hand-built by an adventurous couple in Robinson Crusoe fashion. To find out if there is such a place, I hop into a six-seat plane in Cairns, North Queensland's largest town, and fly north, fi rst over virgin rainforest and then the indigo sea, which is dotted with lime-green reefs that look like giant lily pads. The airport: a clay landing strip on nearby Hicks Island. Baggage handling: by tractor. Destination: paradise.