Meares Island

MUST KAYAK Barkley Sound, for a day of islethopping and wildlifespotting with Uclueletbased Majestic Ocean Kayaking.

MUST WATCH for gray whales on Vancouver Island's west coast (Tofino) between March and October and orcas on the northeast coast in the Johnstone Strait (at Telegraph Cove, pop. 3), July to October.

MUST SIP tea at The Fairmont Empress Hotel, a ritual that's 95 years old.

MUST STAY at Tofino's Wickaninnish Inn above sweeping Chesterman Beach, or Telegraph Cove's waterfront cabins with woodstoves and claw-foot tubs.

MUST TASTE the free-range chicken and organic vegetables at The Mahle House Restaurant in Cedar.