For 15 cordobas, or about 85 cents, the driver leaves me near the brow of the skull-shaped island at Dive Nautilus which, in addition to arranging diving trips, stocks cycles. My bike's chain is rusty, but the tires are full, so I take it for $2 per hour and, with a hand-drawn map at my side, set out to circumnavigate the island which sounds grand. But then you must consider that the road ringing Corn is only about six miles long and the terrain is sea-level flat. Given my gym tempo, I should have been done riding it in only 26 minutes. It took four hours and 34 minutes. And I can't even blame the jay-walking land crabs.