Stockholm Archipelago

MUST TAKE the Thousand Island Cruise, a full-day excursion that stops on the islands of Kymmend¿, Buller¿, and faraway Sandhamn, with lunch/dinner service.

MUST BUY a 16-day Batluffarkort ("Island Hopper") boat pass from Waxholmsbolaget in Stockholm (about $65).

MUST VISIT Vaxholm, the cobblestoned gateway to the archipelago, still the hub of island life and home to one of the country's most photographed 16thcentury fortresses.