Where to See the Best Real Hula in Hawaii

They didn't want my camera here. Event officials said so, in Hawaiian. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

Hula schools (halaus) prepare all year for this. These dancer's even make their own garments and leis. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

A dress check before going on stage involves a final lei given by the halau's headmaster (kuma). Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

It's a tense process. A single lei leaf falling on stage deducts points. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

To my eye, the difference between "hotel hula" and genuine hula is in the movements. These dancers float on stage. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

Each gesture tells stories that span centuries in a ghostly levitation of sorts. Other hulas I had seen are a series of poses—tainted by tourism. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

This is why, as an outsider, gaining access took time, and details like this orange lei, made from thousands of flower petals, emerged slowly. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

I also learned that the dancer's motivation wasn't the competition. Makanani placed third in Miss Aloha Hula, but her smile said she'd won. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

So did the halau's deep respect for nature. If I shot a fern leaf, I had to return it to the forest. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

The real draw was the happenings after the festival, during a gathering on a volcano. They danced at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park through light rain and sunlight that felt scripted. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

It had been stormy all morning. Their dancing seemed to open the sky into bursts of sunlight. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

Paying respects to Pele, the goddes of Hawaii's volcanoes, marked the highlight of the dancer's journey with their halau. Back to Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

Kula Mapu granted me a portrait of Makani, whose smile says it all, though she declined a request to display a hula movement—reminding me hula isn't for show, and each movement carries deep meaning. Read interview with photographer Jen Judge, Behind the Scenes: Hawaii's Real Hula " | Jen Judge

Where To See The Best Real Hula In Hawaii