Hike To One Of The Tallest And Most Remote Spots In Hawaii For A Peek At This Historic Lake
The state of Hawaii has some incredible trails. You can put on your hiking shoes and visit gorgeous waterfalls bathed in rainbows. You can wander along beautiful beaches. You can hike through volcano tubes to volcano summits, or just wander around towns looking for the perfect shave ice. (You should try a lot of them to make this experiment worth it... for science.) However, if you want to do a surprising hike in Hawaii, there is a singular experience you cannot miss. On the Big Island, you can hike up to the only alpine lake in the state of Hawaii, which also happens to be one of the highest lakes in the entire United States of America. This unusual place is Lake Waiau on the Mauna Kea volcano, not that far from the summit.
Lake Waiau sits at 13,020 feet above sea level, and no one is sure exactly how it remains there. There is no stream or river feeding it, and volcanic material is porous. It should have drained away long ago, and annual rainfall at the summit is less than 15 inches. There are theories, including one that says it's because the sulfur steam in the area turned the material below it into fine ash and clay that might hold it in, but it's not certain. However it got there, it's an incredible thing to see and is tied to a Hawaiian legend. It's a wonderful experience, but there are some things you need to know before you go, from weather conditions to how you should handle the altitude. Let's explore this unique area and the best way to hike to Lake Waiau.
Snow goddesses and ice
Lake Waiau, which means "swirling water," is considered a sacred place in Hawaii. It is said that the summit of Mauna Kea is an umbilical cord that connects the land of the island to the heavens. Hawaiian royalty in ancient times were said to throw the umbilical cords of their first-born sons in Lake Waiau to help give them success in life. When hiking here, please respect that fact and don't touch the water or any offerings you may see left here. Pack in and pack out, and leave only footprints. Legend says that the lake is named for a snow goddess named Waiau, one of four sisters including Poliahu, Lilinoe, and Kahoupokane. She is said to have bathed in this sacred lake. If you're surprised by Hawaiian snow goddesses, it's interesting to note that they are said to be in opposition to the more famous fire and volcano goddess, Pele.
It's colder up here than you may expect, and there can definitely be snow. That means you have to prepare before your trip, pack some winter gear, and wear layers. You may see something called "needle ice," which looks like wide grass made of ice shards. This fascinating phenomenon happens when the soil temperature is above freezing but the air above it is below freezing. Another interesting thing to note is that the size of the lake can change. In 2013, it almost disappeared, but after a number of storms over the succeeding years, it was almost filled up again by 2018.
The hike to Waiau
The hike itself is only 1.4 miles out and back, but it's a challenging one, especially if you're prone to altitude sickness. It's recommended you visit the information center, which sits at 9,200 feet above sea level, and stay there for a minimum of 30 minutes to adjust. Symptoms of altitude sickness can include nausea, dizziness, and headache. Make sure you bring water and snacks with you and stop if you're feeling ill. If it doesn't get better quickly, head back down. It's also important to bring sunscreen because you can burn much faster at higher elevations. Here are some other safety tips you should note, especially if you choose to hike this solo.
Roadside parking for the hike is about 6.6 miles past the visitor center at trailhead #1. In about .5 miles, the trail will merge with the Humu'ula Trail to the Mauna Kea summit and then turn off again for about a 10th of a mile to the lake. If you leave early, you can keep going to the summit, which is 13.4 miles roundtrip if you add in the lake. It is usually about a seven- to eight-hour hike. Before you leave the visitor center for either or both hikes, you'll fill out a form and put it in a box so there is a record of you on the hike. Check in when you return. The Lake Waiau hike is one of the best things to do on the Big Island, but there are plenty more here.