The vibe of the first few minutes tells me this will be a different kind of cruise. It is not luxe in the least, but more high-end backpacker, complete with stories fit for a campfire. The staff, of which there are five, is not here to cater to our whims or impress us with manners. They’re here more to chaperone, to make sure we don’t steal drinks, set anything on fire or fall overboard. There will be no nightly turndown, no pinkie drinkies with things stuck in them. It is exactly what I want, a cruise like in the old days — on a 127-foot, 110-year-old tall ship with a “fair dinkum” history.