Go: Begin in Hawaii Kai, where about 35,000 lucky people live along a network of canals and marinas. Head uphill. Brake for scenic lookouts. Wind around the cliffs and lava shelves skirting Koko Head Park. Whales play in the offshore waters November to April. Stretch out along the Kaiwi coastline, which is flat, hot and assaulted by dangerous waves (look, don't surf ). Round the bend at Makapuu Point, and the whole panorama of windward Oahu explodes on your senses. The green palisades of the Koolau Mountains will be on your left, and beaches, beaches, beaches on your right. Head through the rural, languid town of Waimanalo and on to Kailua, a country town gone cute. Kailua Beach's two miles of silky white sand is the town's soul.