Green, Green Fern Gully, a steep and zigzagging three-mile-long canyon festooned with ferns, is a delightful drive out of Ocho Rios. Trees canopy the road, bending to each other like kissing lovers. After the drive, call at Cafe Aubergine, housed in a 200-year-old hillside tavern above the town of Moneague. Specialties change often and may include crayfish Provençal, chicken in coconut curry sauce, and chocolate cake. Mellow jazz and New Age music add romantic notes to this hip place, which draws Jamaicans from all over the isle.