Festivities commenced early this morning with a battery of cannons at dawn, and the carabinieri closed the streets to make space for merrymakers. This evening, Giacondo Cavaliere, a gourmand friend of Peggy's whose name aptly translates as "jovial gentleman," turned up at the boat loaded with fresh greens, zucchini, vines of plump tomatoes, a sack of potatoes, onions, garlic, and a basket full of eggs, all plucked from his garden an hour earlier. Dinner was decided: frittata and salad. Afterward port master Aniello Esposito stopped by with a parcel of biscotti di mandora fresh from the bakery, a few more bottles of wine and limoncello, and the party really commenced. The only thing more powerful than the citrusy digestivo was the fireworks display over the harbor, glinting light on the water like a fleeting school of fish startled by the shocking salvo that reverberated off the limestone cliffs. It was Amalfi as few visitors will ever see it, and even when the light show concluded, Aniello continued the spectacle into the small hours of the night with passionate renditions of Italian love songs and an eccentric dance—part tarantella, part human beatbox—straight out of a Fellini film.