MUST CATCH the sunrise on a two-hour hike up volcanic Mount Batur; views from its 5,633-foot summit stretch to Lombok.
MUST SEE the sanctuary of Besakih, a complex of shrines on the slopes of Mount Agung.
MUST CELEBRATE Galungan, a ten-day islandwide festival usually held twice a year to mark the triumph of virtue (dharma) over evil (adharma).
MUST STAY in one of Begawan Giri Estate's five plush Indonesian-style residences or four villas. Hotel Alam Sari's dozen lovely hilltop rooms have views of Mount Agung and are lower key (and lower priced).