MUST CATCH the sunrise on a two-hour hike up volcanic Mount Batur; views from its 5,633-foot summit stretch to Lombok.
MUST SEE the sanctuary of Besakih, a complex of shrines on the slopes of Mount Agung.
MUST CELEBRATE Galungan, a ten-day islandwide festival usually held twice a year to mark the triumph of virtue (dharma) over evil (adharma).
MUST STAY in one of Begawan Giri Estate's five plush Indonesian-style residences or four villas. Hotel Alam Sari's dozen lovely hilltop rooms have views of Mount Agung and are lower key (and lower priced).
MUST SAMPLE the food at local stalls at the Sanur Beach Market.