The Stella Australis sat far below, bobbing in the unpredictable seas that made the passage around Cape Horn famous. Chunks of ice floated by. How big a chunk would it take to sink a ship and leave a landing party stranded? To get this far from any gift-shop-lined mega-dock, we'd shipped out of Punta Arenas, Chile, three days before. En route, we went ashore at Ainsworth Bay, where beaver dams formed mirrorlike pools. We saw penguins roosting on Tucker Islet. After each short landing, we reboarded and quickly pulled anchor for the next spot. This was no Caribbean cruise. There was no cabaret show, no movie theater, no bandstand. The real draw was just getting to these spots, preserved by their remoteness. We were alone everywhere we went.