Big Island

MUST SCOPE OUT the 80-foot-tall Subaru Telescope on Mauna Kea. Call ahead to book a free tour. Dress warmly.

MUST SEE Kilauea Volcano, the star of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Bring a flashlight at night to see glowing lava. Rangers work until 7 P.M. but the park's open all night.

MUST DINE at Hilo's Restaurant Kaikodo, all the buzz with its 19thcentury antiques and Pacific Rim cuisine (by way of New Orleans) from chef Mike Fennelly.

MUST STAY at Hilo's homey B and B, Shipman House, a registered Historic Place with heirloom furnishings.

MUST TASTE the local fruit at the Hilo Farmers Market (one of Hawaii's best).