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Fly on American Airlines through Puerto Rico to Tortola's airport (EIS). aa.com

Stay on Tortola at the Sugar Mill Hotel, which is a restored 17th-century sugar plantation on Apple Bay, sugarmillhotel.com. On Virgin Gorda, Mango Bay Resort at Mahoe Bay comprises picturesque villas with great kayaking and snorkeling right there on the shore, mangobayresort.com. There is no better place in all the BVI for water play than the Bitter End Yacht Club, with more than a mile of oceanfront on North and Statia sounds. Find everything from sailing to fishing, kitesurfing to diving, beyc.com. Little Dix Bay, on the west coast, continues to define elegance -- and tropical drinks. Try a Cool Cucumber from renowned mixologist Brian Van Flander, littledixbay.com. Guana Island has 850 acres of luxury amenities and wonderful wilds. For ultimate privacy, book the resort's North Beach Cottage. guana.com

Eat at Palm's Delight on Tortola's Carrot Bay, serving family-style West Indian dishes like rotis, pâtés and fish Creole, 284-495-4863. Try Crandall's Pastry Plus for johnnycakes, coconut bread and salt fish, 284-494-5156. To enjoy an authentic British experience while you're on Tortola, go for a meal at Pusser's Road Town Pub, 284-494-3897. The Rock Café on Virgin Gorda is famed for Italian dishes such as spaghetti with lobster, 284-495-5482. Weekend nights, all manner of local joints fire up the barbecue for delicious jerk chicken. The Sugar Mill has a restaurant in what was once the boiling house for an old rum distillery (ask for a table in front of the waterfall). sugarmillhotel.com/restaurant

Relax at the Sense spa. Perched above the Rosewood Little Dix Bay resort on Virgin Gorda, this hilltop jungle enclave is a spa that immerses guests in island culture. littledixbay.com

Get active on Tortola, where surfers head to Apple Bay, Cane Garden Bay and Josiah's Bay. Hike to the top of Sage Mountain, the BVI's highest point. Virgin Gorda has Gorda Peak, with a spectacular view.

Explore with a day trip to Jost Van Dyke and Anegada. Meet Foxy's Bar namesake Foxy Callwood, raconteur extraordinaire. Name your hometown, and Foxy will create an ode to it, foxysbar.com. Pop into Sidney's Peace and Love, where payment is on the honor system. Sidney cooks reef lobster over fire using a secret family recipe, 284-495-9271.

Learn more at bvitourism.com.